Paddle a bit. Git on up on your feet. Now that’s a feeling. The ocean lifts you right up. But the best part has to be trailing your fingers in the wall of the wave under the curl. It’s not as good as running a twig down a length of picket fence, but it’s pretty good.
Nothing like some good old Bosco surfing.
It’s a “tidal bore.” When an incoming tide is confined to a small river opening, the tide can rush up with enough force to look like big rollers in the open ocean. This one’s in China, but even though you might be able to ignite the river water, that’s not why it looks so chocolate milky. Lots and lots of sediment gets stirred up by the tide.
Some surf on ten-story buildings made from water, for instance.
OK, I’m finished.